we don’t get a break from summer here in singapore. it only gets hotter, or wetter, or stuffier.

and fall fashion week is one of favourite things in the world by simple virtue of the fact that seeing these clothes brings me into a world where heat is no longer pervasive.

but this season, it is marred by the death of a legend. lee mcqueen of alexander mcqueen fame.

he did manage to show his final show in milan for menswear, where he was brilliantly defiant, marrying his astounding technical tailoring skills with his unique vision.

(alexander mcqueen, fall 2010)

much of the fall trends this season veer away from the traditional fall colours of browns and maroons and earth tones, instead embracing black, whites and greys. even fewer designers chose to use prints. but mcqueen showed a brave and exciting collection of knits and coats which reimagined the fall colours whilst incorporating bold prints along with the innovative use of montones.

one of the only other designers to really use prints was mrs prada, introducing colour and patterns into a military inspired collection.

(prada, fall 2010)

military was also seen in marc by marc jacobs, though these two shirts from his respective collection label and diffusion label are my favourites.

(marc jacobs collection, fall 2010 and marc by marc jacobs, fall 2010)

the semi-skirt pant was also an interesting and fresh take on a trend that has been underwhelmingly boring lately. so you have a guy in a skirt. now what.

with fall, outerwear and coldwear are obviously key, and lanvin is always an interesting one to watch. their trench was interesting and masculine. john varvatos did a heavy knitted coat that appealed very much to me, probably because i love oversized knits. whilst knitted heavyweights iceberg disappointed with a confused collection that seemed like a cross between Gap and Burberry, and not even in a good way.

(lanvin, fall 2010; john varvatos, fall 2010; iceberg, fall 2010)

raf simmons did a long sweater that brought back the good old colour blocking that he is famously skilled at.

(raf simmons, fall 2010)

my favourite collection was spurr, whose accessibility coupled with its subtle conciousness won me over.

(spurr, fall 2010)

the styling was sensible, and the clothes were extremely wearable but still very thoughtful. i love the geometric prints and its colour on the sweater as well as the leather jacket.

however, the designer who looked the best was probably ricardo tisci at givenchy.

(ricardo tisci at givenchy, fall 2010)

i love that tshirt. haha. but ricardo’s gothic rebellious spirit for givenchy was somewhat diluted this season and not much to scream about.

all in all. i don’t know. i normally appreciate the drama of fashion shows and their clothes and this season clothes weren’t as exciting. but the opportunity to layer and dress warmly will come soon once i finally get to start school, that’s when all the pieces will be hitting the stores, so maybe i’ll be more excited then.

can’t wait!

(all photo credits to www.gq.com)

soon after she found herself the new face of a Chloé fragrance (the fashion label famous) and the once newyork “it-girl” was suddenly in again.

you rarely get that many chances to be “it”, but she’s done it over and over again.

this fall, she brings something strangely exciting to the menswear table.

her upcoming collaboration with opening ceremony is a bit of paradox. i like some pieces but really hate some pieces.

living in a perpetual summer, people often don’t understand my love for cold wear.

but to me, any anti-cold item is a symbol of a life different from this one.

whilst the hipster lowereastside look isnt something i completely embrace, chloë seems to subtly marry that into a collection that is at once traditional and exciting.

it almost makes me like the fair aisles print. (although to be honest i have a huge soft spot for christmas sweaters)

i have to say. the pieces have to be judged as a whole. otherwise the design aesthetic is a little underwhelming.

meaning look at the pieces in terms of a complete outfit rather than as individual style pieces.

but there is one particular item in this collaboration that excites me beyond excites.

this triumvirate fashion collaboration, between chloë, opening ceremony and classic footwear company bass , is pretty sweet. i think it summarizes the collection pretty well. a mix of alternate culture, fashion forwardness, and good old rugged americana.

plus these shoes are so cheap. i think they’re slated to be around USD $120. (i’m not sure though).

of course they’re limited so.

but seeing those shoes gave me the first fashion chills i’ve had in a long time.

a long time.

(photo credits: opening ceremony and men.style.com)

much has happened in the fashion world. yet nothing much to scream about.

the sartorialist has released a book (available mid august).

alexander wang has announced a menswear line.

project runway announced an all star season.

emma watson became the face of burberry.

but nothing excites like the way it used to.

all i can say is thanksgiving could not come sooner. please.

(photo credit : all items from marc by marc jacobs specialty)

Posted in Uncategorized Tagged: alexander wang, burberry, emma watson, marc by marc jacobs, marc jacobs, new york, project runway, sartorialist ]]> http://retardationality.wordpress.com/2009/07/28/misc-03/feed/ 0 retardationality Marc http://retardationality.wordpress.com/2009/03/23/misc-02/ http://retardationality.wordpress.com/2009/03/23/misc-02/#comments Mon, 23 Mar 2009 05:43:25 +0000 Ivan http://retardationality.wordpress.com/?p=161 ]]> sorry for the lack of updates.

it’s very embarrassing.

it’s been more than a month and so much has happened.

i’ve been tempted to write updates so often but i do my 10min of research and then i get distracted by something else.

not cool.

but i’m going to sydney this thursday, the fashion capital of australia, so there should be some great excitement there. vanishing elephants. i die.

in the mean time.

all these old house brands are doing crazy things lately. it’s very inspiring.

that and check out this awesome online magazine.

very cool. woo.

soon. i promise. a real entry.

truth is i’m very grateful to have who i have around for my birthday this year, as i was very prepared to have a non-celebration.

turning 20 is a scary thing. it’s the start of a new decade and a departure from youth. i have officially one month left of true teenhood.

i guess that’s why  i’ve had this strange obsession with youth and childhood lately. of being truly young.

a kidult.

The Phantom Tollbooth and Mathilda

these two books were my favourite books growing up. strangely, i’ve lost my copies of both these books. which might be a good thing because they were pretty weathered. i’ve gone through a bit of a book-rut recently, and have resorted to re-reading my harrypotters. so a return to my childhood would be much welcomed.

Dee & Ricky Lego Accessories
from USD$70
www.deeandricky.com

(heart brooch and bowtie clip from dee&ricky)

how much did we love lego as kids? seriously. this feature might be a little belated but i’ve had a deep appreciation for these much-hyped pieces for a long long while. from the heart brooch to the bowtie clip to the marcjacobs belts. too cool, too cute.

Black Tees
www.luisaviaroma.com

(black graphic tees by dior homme and kris van assche, left to right, from lusiaviaroma)

when i was a teenager, i was kinda fat. lol. it’s not something i’m ashamed of, rather it’s still part of who i am. which is why for much of my teenage years i wore nothing but black. to this day, i would say 50% of my wardrobe is still black. i love a good well-fitted black tee with a simple but sexy print. featured are 2 shirts from Dior Homme and Kris Van Assche (which technically are both by the same guy), but there are a million different tees which are equally cool. Passarella, House of Holland, Insight… just some of the more appreciative brands out there. i think they just have to be special. black tees can be forgettable, and it’s important that they not be.

Gucci Shirt
SGD $495

(zipper graphic shirt from gucci)

then the kidult was born. the printed shirts from Gucci’s most recent cruise line are pretty cool. this one features a zipper pattern which i think is just amazing. it comes in a darker colourway which is equally cool but very different. the new signature Tattoo print by Gucci which is incorporated in another shirt as well as a very cool windbreaker are also very fun additions to a wardrobe.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Piped Shorts
SGD $250

(marc jacobs resort 09 lookbook, featuring blue and brown shorts, left to right)

taken from marc’s marc by marc resort line, these lightweight twill shorts come in an array of colours. i die for the khaki brown and the blue (featured above). the piping on the side is a subtly interesting detail whilst the strange material (which must be some nylon cotton hybrid) is comfortable and very sexy. i’ve refrained from buying this shorts for a while only because i have too many, but i think the brown pair would make a great addition as a fun basic piece.

Lanvin Toe-Cap Sneaker
USD$630

(metal cap tennis sneaker from lanvin)

haha. okay. so i’ve been a bit of a lanvin lover lately. it’s late rebirth has been nothing short of spectacular and these shoes are so fucking sexy. the beige/gold colourway is super chic and the metal toe cap is super cool. it’s a grownup sneaker for the fashion forward. i’ve tried Pierre Hardy and i have a pair and i have to say they’re REALLY uncomfortable. i’ve done about 10min in the lanvin and they seem so much better. so. haha. the suede/metallic contrast is super cool.

so obviously a wishlist is just a wishlist. there are million things i’ve wanted over the course of my life, some of them are still listed in the archives of this blog (raf simons x eastpak denim bag/ paulsmith toothbrush/ hermes planner… lol). but they’re all just wishes. along with return tickets to newyork, more leave at work, a pack of american spirits (i miss those so bad).

i’m perfectly happy with the gifts i get every year. gifts which mean something and say something about our friendships and relationships. the shirts, the dvds, the cards.

cards are the best. a nice heartfelt message from the people you care for.

and with that i end this premature coming of age entry. i cannot wait for march to be over.

a  grandiose entry soon on some pretty damn nice stuff.

but first.

one of my favourite shop interiors belongs to the ever chic Marni.

designed by UK-based design company Sybarite, every Marni store in the world follows a certain theme but still has an individual aesthetic to it.

the stores are all furnished with the signature metal work which i just die for. the metal frames are so sculptural and fluid it’s almost like having an art piece in the store itself.

the metalwork ties in cohesively with the organic feel of the Marni design aesthetic as well, evoking a sense of clean excitement.

that’s not to say that colour doesn’t play into the boutique design as well. sure, a lot of the Marni stores are mostly white with bright lights and metal; but some if not most play with colour as well to supplement the fun that goes into designing such a wonderful boutique.

(all images by Sybarite, featuring the Sydney and London boutique)

if it’s anything we’ve learnt, it’s that there are hard times ahead.

(left to right : prada fw 09, bottega fw 09, burberry prorsum fw 09)

like i predicted in my “2008 in review” entry, blacks, greys and neutrals ruled the runway – painting a picture of sombre dedication and silent manhood. most designers tried to play with silhouettes or shapes or little details (prada’s cohesive collection, if a little basic, played with studded details). everything was meant to be more practical. all-purpose coats, self-shine shoes, work-to-play shirts. etc. such conflict and purpose within each item. i particularly love the oversized prada bag (featured above) which functions as a work-briefcase, a day bag and a travel bag all at once.

it’s what we probably would call “Recession Chic”. lots of things were really really cute, just not particularly exciting or dramatic. nothing opulent.

highlights for me begin with Alexander Mcqueen‘s amazing victorian inspired collection.

(alexander mcqueen fw 09)

people often forget that mcqueen is one of the best tailors and patternmakers of the 21st century. this collection allowed him to express his avant-garde vision whilst remaining relevant and not-costumey. obviously if you wear and style these pieces the way they went down the runway you’d look a little crazed, but his pieces are still so mysteriously masculine. strangely seductive collection i must say. wearablity is questionable but still. fierce.

(jil sander fw 09)

i also give raf simons props for his Jil Sander collection. i always love the structured pieces of jil sander, the construction and minimalism is so beautiful and xyse. this time raf was really in his element. the colour hues he played with were still muted but well matched, such that the drama was present but not overwhelming. still sobriety was the backdrop of the ever minimalist brand.

(john richmond fw 09)

the john richmond collection was also very cool. he pretty much stayed to black and brown, but there was a glam-rock practicality to his designs. the aesthetic was very urban-harsh but the effect was still that the clothes were soft and accessible at the same time. i die for the coats.

the collection that really rebelled within the Recession Chic mode was Iceberg. iceberg has been around for years and it’s always marched to it’s own beat. this time, they played around with colour, particularly the colour (other than black,grey and neutrals) that seems to rule 2009. blue. prints were cartoony but very well designed. such a fun sensibility despite the overtones of black and grey.

(iceberg fw 09)

i love the kidult-esque outfits and the wonderful knitwear. which isn’t surprising since iceberg started out as a knitwear company before going fullon into fashion.

all in all though, fall/winter 09 doesn’t strike me as particularly fun. there are definitely classic pieces in the collection, but i love myself a little drama in what i wear. not over the top, but still a presence. but i guess fashion and the world can’t possibly accommodate the frivolous requests of man anymore. we have to wear what we wear because we have to wear it now. the utilitarian movement.

and we better be happy doing it.

the designer that perhaps best summed up fall/winter for men was Thom Browne. the american designer’s first time in milan saw him doing a collection-installation.

40 models. identical suits (very sexy. signature grey shrunken thom browne suits with a camel-toned overcoat). walk in. remove coats. sit. type.

go.

birthed out of the final collaboration between raf simon and eastpak, these bags marry raf’s avant-garde minimalism with eastpak’s durablity and technical sensiblity.

(Large Hobo Bag, Backpack)

first, there is something to be said about denim this season. it’s big EVERYWHERE. traditionally on pants, shirts and jackets. but even better on bags, shoes, accessories and the like. i am seriously feeling these two bags. the leather and zip detail are so distinct yet aesthetic. amazing.

(Kit Bag, Hobo Bag)

and then there are the other bags. while i really dont like sheer bags (the Kit bag is made out of a fine mesh), it’s still very very cute with the leather, zip and metal detail.

i die for the blue hobo bag though. it is so handsome yet stylish at the same time. fashion forward yet practical. shoulder bags are my favourite because they normally are the bags u can dumb a lot of shit in.

all the bags from this collection are particularly slouchy and shapeless. yet there is such intention behind the structure and the construction is phenomenal. can’t wait to get a piece.

besides. after 3 seasons, it’s about time to celebrate this (finally?) successful collaboration. i mean. some of the pieces from previous seasons were not cute.

great way to start off a week though.

(all images by Oki-Ni featuring that awful model)

the best accessory is really a good watch.

some guys pull off earstuds (notice. STUDS. not rings.)

some guys pull off bracelets.

a special necklace with religious significance can be kinda cool as well. that or subtle dogtags.

my cousin is actually one of the most accessorized individuals i know. he has a tongue stud, many ear studs and a lip ring. and he carries them all of perfectly. a lot of it is about style and personality as well.

what do your accessories say about you?

unfortunately, a lot of guys try too hard. look at any one of the guys in the early seasons of The Hills (i have succumbed to watching). wayyy too gangsta. it becomes pretentious. it’s really obvious when you clearly don’t believe in what you wear.

but this entry isn’t really about the jewellery items i love. rather. just a particular item that has caught some minor attention in the fashion world.

the spongebob collection by Russell Simmons x Nickelodeon x Viacom is really interesting. back when russell simmons and kimora lee were still together, they made these blinged out hellokitty accessories for girls and women and that was relatively successful. i doubt the success of this spongebob line will be particularly mind-blowing, but still

i love spongebob. and there is some class to this collection. some.

but, as karl lagerfeld recently said, bling is dead. and he really is right.

i am conflicted.

i’ve always believed in retail therapy but lately all i feel like doing is buy shoes. i don’t know what it is.

but a budget for 09 has kept me from buying these amazing lanvin dress shoes. simply amazing.

but. oh well.

so today we’re doing lace-up sneakers. woots.

speaking of lanvin, i’ve previewed these Lanvin x Acne shoes before, but now they’re actually for sale and they are more amazing than i thought they could be. so so chic.

the leather detail is not super original, honestly everyone is dong it. from raf to pierre. but hey. the denim the denim the denim. it’s one thing to use denim in a shoe (pierre did it in a very recent season), but to use such fine denim such as Acne’s. magic.

also very cute are these Lacoste “Rene” shoes. named after the famed tennis player and founder of lacoste, these shoes come in blue, pink and yellow. but i die for these blue ones. even though neon is kinda last season, these babies are understated enough to be worn for a while to come.

another great collaboration are these Converse x Thom Browne shoes. i. love. these. i really really really really really really really really really really do. they are SOOO amazing. the print, the colours, the stitching. it’s an amazing clothe tennis shoe that Converse commissioned for their anniversary. ONLY 50 PAIRS. but at € 1183.11 w/o tax….. yeah. seriously.

on a related note, kanye west recently previewed a shoe he is due to debut in june as part of his Louis line for Louis Vuitton.

i have to say. not impressed.

a lot of people are giving him props because it’s a nice decent shoe. and it really is. it’s a boat shoe/sneaker hybrid with subtle detail and luxurious material. but it’s really not that amazing. like everything kanye does, it’s overhyped, overthought and ultimately disappointing (honestly. his concert?! his album?!).

i love the dude and his style is super fly, but he honestly needs to realize that great style doesn’t make a great designer. i’m not feeling the vision nor the design. at all.

then again, it’s not a clear photo and we haven’t seen a whole line. never judge a man by a single action but by the sum of his parts. so. we’ll see.