guy’s stuff

Archive for October 2008

phenomenon: fashion collaborations

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any collaboration in the fashion world is exciting and refreshing. most recently a string of collaboration pop-up (temporary) shops have sprung up across the globe, including the Colette x Gap store in New York and Commes De Garcons x Louis Vuitton store in Tokyo.

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(Colette x Gap store, NY; Commes x Louis Vuitton store, Tokyo)

throughout the past few years in particular, the collaborations between designers, or between brands, or between designer and mass brands in particular, has shook up the fashion world and allowed for new and innovative designs to be developed.

one of the most successful collaborations to date is the Y3 brand that has been birthed out of the incredible partnership between Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto. despite my lack of love for sportswear, Y3 happens to be carry some of my favourite pieces, and is a personal favourite of mine.  it combines yamamoto’s avant garde sensibility with adidas material and technology. each product is thus both fashionably aesthetic and 100% functional.

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(Y-3 SS/09 Collection)

other successful sportswear/footwear and designer relationships include stella mccartney for adidas, mihara yasuhiro AND alexander mcqueen for puma and most recently raf simmons for dr martens (ss 09). we take all these established and respectable designers and what their design aesthetic is supplemented by the mass appeal of brand they design for. personally i LOVE the mihara for puma collection, but i still believe in mihara’s own product line more. but raf simmons for dr martens is an extremely promising collection (albeit somewhat different from the other brands since this collection looks to be a one off instead of a sustained partnership) because what it does is it fuses the adventurism and innovation of raf simmon and the wearablity and trustablity of the dr marten brand.

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(mihara yasuhiro x puma FW/08)

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(Raf Simmons x Dr Martens SS/09)

related to this sort of collaboration is when a designer comes up with a line of accessories for a brand, such as Kris Van Assche for Oliver Peoples. combining the masculine new world aesthetic of the Dior Hommehead designer with the trendiness and cult-sensibility of Oliver Peoples, the range of sunglasses is incredibly chic with its interchangeable lenses, and they potentially are able to establish themselves as classics.

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(Kris Van Assche x Oliver Peoples)

another type of designer collaboration is exemplified by takashi murakami for louis vuitton. like with philippe starck for fossil (see entry on watches 01) , takashi murakami is an artiste by trade, and what he brings is a unique an very beautifully abstract concept to fashion table. by thinking out of the fashion world, it gains artistic value and thus makes it an even more covetable fashion object. it’s a strange yet completely understandable fashion paradox. what makes this all the more exciting is the fact that there is a sense of internationalism in the design, merging the french aesthetic of LV with the japanese vision of murkami.

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(Takashi Murukami x Louis Vuitton Monogram Camoflauge)

but perhaps my favourite kind of designer collaboration is between a designer and a mass fashion brand. most of the time, a designer hooks up with a mass fashion label to create a line or what we call a capsule collection. this is unlike Kim Jones who is now designing for Alfred Dunhill, where an already established cult designer is hired to oversee the design for an entire line. same can be said for marc jacobs and louis vuitton.

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capsule collections have their appeal in their overt “trendiness”. because they only exist for that moment, the items become that much more “necessary”. the dozen or so items created by the designer for the line are supposed to be interchangeably worn as separates as as an entire outfit, combining the elements of high fashion design with street practicality and affordablity. perhaps the most successful mass label that has embraced the concept of designer capsule collections is swedish clothing company H&M. it has worked with many of the members of fashion royalty including Chanel legend Karl Lagerfeld, jil sander’s Raf Simmon, sutch design team Viktor & Rolf, spice girl favourite Roberto Cavalli, and american sweetheart Stella McCartney. each collection has turned out to be such instant sell-outs that some collections have reportedly been snapped up within an hour of it’s launch.

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(H&M Collaborations: top left clockwise – Roberto Cavalli at a fitting, Karl Lagerfeld ads,
Viktor & Rolf men’s look, queue at Stella McCartney’s debut)

which brings me to the two most buzzed about collaborations today. without a doubt, H&M’s upcoming collaboration with Commes De Garcons (in stores November) is first on that list. there are many interesting things about this collaboration. for one, Rei Kawakubo, the powerhouse behind the japanese brand, does not seem to compromise any of the famous Commes aesthetic. with her, it’s all about deconstruction mixed with independent and exaggerated silhouettes and those famous Commes painted polka dots. in all honesty, i find it hard to see the what H&M adds to this collection. it’s almost as if Commes just found a new place to design and produce a line. price wise, there isn’t a significant difference between the high-fashion price tag of Commes and no longer affordable prices of this new H&M collaboration. but i say cheers to Commes because it has probably gotten the sweeter end of the deal, increases it’s marketability through the use of H&M’s marketing resources and brand. H&M of course stands to gain too as it has truly established itself as the most fashion forward mass fashion label to date.

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(Commes des Garcons x H&M)

another of the collaborations i look forward to is the Lanvin and Acne partnership. this capsule collection is beyond chic and the men’s line in particular is super successful. combining the high-fashion brand Lanvin with the cult-denim label Acne, the collection manages to find a wonderful sophistication with jeans and denim. the clothes are truly amazing, and is centered around the idea of “making denim more desirable”. i am completely feeling the romanticism of denim in the design, particularly with regards to the casual cool of those awesome denim shorts.

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(Lanvin x Acne menswear collection)

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(Standout Piece : Lanvin luxury meets Acne denim in a hightop sneaker)

yet, as much as i want to believe that fashion collaborations are purely motivated by artistic visions and craft appreciation, i know this is not so. a lot of the collaborations are mere products of acute business acumen, where brands constantly want to upgrade themselves and their image, whilst efficiently increasing their market with shared marketing and new product development (wow i never thought i’d actually get to use things i learnt duringstudied for IB Business class ever!). still, it’s nice to believe in the spirit of collaborations and at the end of the day, the inspiration is still there. genuine or not, i’ll buy it.

douchebag: collars

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there are many ways a guy can end up looking like a douche. and one of the most prevalent ways is through the use of collars

walk down the street and you’ll see douchebags EVERYWHERE with their “popped” or upturned collars. i mean seriously, only gum and bubbles were meant to be popped. (joke may be bad but the collar-douche is seriously worst)

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i sincerely do not understand the need for a guy to reach for his collar and turn it up. it’s incomprehensible and it’s just really weird. i mean. does it make you look better? not really. it’s just so obnoxious and screams “i’m a jock/jock wannabe and i think i’m so cool”.

all that’s missing are khaki shorts, aviator shades, and that i’m-too-sexy-for-my-shirt swagger.

as separates, all these things can kind of work. khaki shorts can look really cool with a white top and sandals. aviator shades can look really good when paired with a shirt. and that swagger. haha. i myself will admit to be guilty of the occasional swagger , but i refer to it by a different name – the dance-walk. it’s the walk you adapt when you hear a beat or feel really confident (like when i’m wearing my gucci ponyhair loafers).

but that collar should NEVER be turned up. please. they’re bad enough on polos but are worst on dress shirts.

another crazy and, in my books, more reproachable trend is that of the exposed collar.

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i don’t watch the hills, but Spencer Pratt (photographed above), just pisses me off. i mean look at that outfit. it’s not a bad suit per se. but it’s that inappropriate unshaven face, deliberately tanned skin, glaring jerk-smirk and most importantly, that disgusting exposed collar.

i mean. the whole deal is just so unnecessary. do you know how much more effort it takes to KEEP that collar out of your jacket than it does to keep it in? it looks stupid, trashy, sloppy and pretentious all at the same time.

the same people who pop their collars are most probably the same people who commit the exposed collar offence as well because they belong to the same group of people. people who simply try too hard. that’s really what it is. fashion and style should be something very natural. sure, a thought process should be carried out, or what i call intention, but at the end of the day, don’t end up looking like the guy everyone loves to hate.

there also needs to be a belief we invest in our outfits. there’s no point TRYING to look like something or TRYING to give off a certain kind of effect. believe in the garments you wear and then style will develop subsequently. i guess that’s why models are perceived to be empty vessels, because the more insipid and bland their personalities on the runway, the more the garment will be the main focus. it’s all about the clothes.

the exposed collar in particular is very costumey. let me tell you who commits this offence the most: teenage boys, and the men who believe they are teenage boys. it’s true. think about your prom and think about the number of guys who flared out their collars. picture one of them in your head and try to recall whether you thought they looked cool or not.

not happening.

very john travolta circa Saturday Night Fever.

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of course some guys can pull this look off. they’re the same 5% minority who can pull any look off. these people, as derek zoolander would say, ridiculously good looking, or just too cool to be judged. otherwise you’re just a douchebag. i happen to be able to think of only one friend who can pull off the popped collar, but he happens to be a polo player, and to some extent i can understand how polo players try to diversify the eponymous polo shirt.

i guess that this whole collar saga is very phallic in the sense that we as men constantly see the need to keep them up and are unable to keep them in.

Written by Ivan

October 13, 2008 at 1:11 pm

blog roll

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i’ve currently linked a few of my favourite websites, the ones which are the first ones i visit whenever i have free time on the internet.

I Am Chuck Bass

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whenever i think of gossip girl, i think  of Serena and then i think of Chuck. for the record, i REALLY hate dan. but anyways. Chuck Bass is possibly the most iconic male fictional character of the iphone generation. a true stylish bastard with a heart, he’s the guy everyone loves to hate and every boy wants to be. and i think secretly we all root for him.

I Am Chuck Bass, taken from Chuck’s iconic line “I’m Chuck Bass” is a male perspective of the Gossip Girl-verse. it is analytical, engaging and entertaining all at the same time. it isnt the BEST episode recap out there (see New York Magazine for that), but it possibly offers the most well balanced dude-love for the show. and that lets me rest in the knowing that i’m not the only guy out there (and i’m REALLY not) who thinks this really is The Best Show Ever.

MenStyle.com
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from the kind people at Conde Nast who brought you GQ and Details comes the most comprehensive men’s lifestyle blog out there. Men Style includes contributions from an array of writers and men’s fashion commentators that include up to date new product featurettes, collection reviews, designer spotlights, etc. it really is a wealth of information. best part is it’s updated multiple times daily, so there’s always something to look forward to.

Project Gambit

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every other guy i know has read The Game or at least heard about the famous Mystery. so Project Gambit was potentially a boring rip-off of the pick-up culture that Mystery has so ingeniously populated. written by the strong yet sensitive “Chase”, one sees The Game in application with practical advise for guys in a emphatic and appreciated way.  Chase’s  writing is  humble and real and becomes accessible and understandable all at the same time.

The Sartorialist

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featured early on in previous entries (and on possibly EVERY fashion publication out there),  The Sartorialist  by native New Yorker Scott Schuman is a colourful and exciting fashion blog which features his expertly captured photographs of interestingly dressed individuals. the whole concept of the blog is to see, through schuman’s lenses, inspiration in everyday people on the street. which is what is so amazing about this blog. i once said that i wished everyone would dress with an intention, and that’s what everyone who graces The Sartorialist does.

interestingly, all these websites are linked in some distinct way or another.

The boys of Gossip Girl (including Ed Westwick who plays Chuck Bass) were recently featured on the cover of the Conde Nast publication, Details. The Game, which is the inspiration behind the localized Project Gambit website, was at a time so glorified by all the 3 great men’s lifestyle publications: GQ, Details and Esquire. And the Sartorialist does regular features for GQ.

the world is a very small place, the world of fashion even more so.

Written by Ivan

October 8, 2008 at 9:48 am

watches 01

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apologies for the lack of posting for those who kindly visit this site, have been distracted and busy as of late.

ironically it has also been this period where i have been more into fashion than i think i have ever been.

i have a couple of entries in my arsenal, already written but awaiting editing, but i’ve decided to go ahead and just post this one directly.

a couple of months ago my parents left for paris for a little tour du jour and returned bearing a bunch of oversized APC shirts as gifts for me. the thought was appreciated and the shirts were nothing my favourite tailor couldn’t fix for $12.

(the backstory is basically like this : my father and i used to be the same size, but recently, age has caught up with him and he’s been developing somewhat of a belly and this has made him 2 sizes larger than me. he however still likes to insist we are the same size and buys clothes for me based on his measurements)

but they did return with something that needed no immediate alteration, a watch.

while they were away, the first watch (a digital black Diesel cicra 2006) i had ever bought for myself with my first paycheque died on me. i’m sure i could have just gotten the battery and tattered leather strap replaced, but as my parents called for their daily check-ins, i informed them of my recent loss.

my dad is somewhat of a techie, and our entire house is testimony to this. it is filled with gadgets and weird inventions that are strange but functional.

he returned with an analog philippe starck for fossil watch.

it was beautiful, but i truly did not LOVE it because i have been a digital kid all my life. i think it’s a testimony of our generation because i am really much too lazy to even read the time off an analog interface.

but the watch was much too beautiful to not use, and i have since developed a love-hate relationship with its style and function.

the Starck collection for Fossil is so avant-garde in its own way and its minimalism is both subtle and dramatic. which is truly a difficult thing to achieve.

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this collaboration has actually been going on for a while, but with each collection his watches seem still be fresh and new, never stagnating. which is what has made this collaboration so successful.

PhotobucketPhotobucketthere is also such thought which goes into the designs. for example the watch that i own (not pictured) has a really futuristic and illusory complicated face. yet the juxtaposition of the textured black leather strap is at once aesthetic and fully functional. it’s not just handsome, but incredibly chic.

that said, i still will NEVER give up my love of digital watches, because the simple convenience that it provides has truly missed.

which is why i’m so excited everytime i see the Gucci LED Watch Concept.

revealed early this year, the gucci concept is basically a gucci bracelet (which seems to be unisex, though personally i feel it’s a little more masculine) with a sliding door which reveals an LED digital watch face.

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there is such a sleekness to the design that really oozes such a sexy steel charm. little is known about when the watch will be released, but when it does, i’ll be sure to be the first in line to at least try it on. haha.

i personally love a good wrist accessory. i’ve been known to wear the same handsome leather wrist cuff for years now. i think it’s been with me for about 5 years, a gift from an adolescent girlfriend. so having a wrist accessory that is the embodiment of style+utilitarianism is truly a blessing.

the interesting thing is that both designers (Philippe Starck and Nuno Oliveira for Gucci) aren’t fashion designers but product designers. Particularly Starck who is the go-to-guy for innovative and stylized furniture and lifestyle products, is one of the most respected Parisian designers of our time. Perhaps that’s what gives the watches that added advantage. by taking away the “trendiness” of the fashion world, inspiration becomes purely organic and the end product is always that much more amazing.

because that’s really what these watches are:

amazing.

Written by Ivan

October 7, 2008 at 1:20 pm